Small Bag, Big Appetite

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Self-Guided Chinatown, NYC Food Tour

On a recent rainy day off (thank you, 3-day weekends) I took the subway up to Chinatown in Manhattan and went on my own little food tour of the neighborhood. I went to five different spots, got a bunch of steps in, spent less than $30, and left with a full belly and a bag full of leftovers.

It was a really fun and delicious way to explore a neighborhood and I’m already thinking about what part of the city I can do this in again. It doesn’t hurt that food in Chinatown is very inexpensive, allowing me to spread myself thin. Hey, maybe I’ll do a Chinatown Part II!

There are dozens and dozens (and dozens more) spots to eat in Chinatown. Any quick Yelp, Google, Eater, Foursquare, etc. search will tell you where to try the “best” dumplings, noodles, and pancakes, but here is where I decided to go after a bit of my own research. Scroll all the way down for a map.

Stop 1: Lam Zhou Handmade Noodle and Dumpling

Where: 40 Bowery, NYC 

What: Boiled pork dumplings

Cost: $4 for an order of 8

The old Lam Zhou closed and reopened at 40 Bowery. The no-frills space is pretty large with plenty of two-tops suitable for solo diners; I wasn’t the only one eating alone. I asked for the boiled dumplings, which are filled with pork and herbs and come in an order of eight for only $4. When the server brought my food, one dumpling slipped off the plate and landed on her tray and neither of us really acknowledged it, but, oh, the tragedy. I had no utensils or condiments on my table so grabbed chopsticks and a tupperware of chili oil from a neighbor. After a conservative drizzle of chili oil I took a bite. The dumplings were slippery, warm, flavorful, and very delicious. I had to stop myself from eating more than three, knowing that there was more food to be had.

Overall: food was great, service was lacking. Would be a good place to come with a group.

Stop 2: Xi’An Famous Foods

Where: 45 Bayard Street, NYC

What: Stewed pork noodles

Cost: $9.37

Xi’An is a chain worth going to. A large menu complete with photographs to guide you hangs on the wall just before you get up to the counter to order. They’re known for their hand-ripped noodles so I ordered those (to go since I knew I wouldn’t finish the dish there) topped with stewed pork for $10.20 including tax. When asked about my preferred spicy level I chose light (second on a scale of 1-4, where 4 is extra hot).

All the first-come, first-served tables were full and there’s not a ton of space to wait for your number to be called, but they called mine pretty quickly and I was able to snag a seat just as someone got up. I dug in and oh. my. god. Everything about this dish was amazing and it took all the self-control I had not to eat the whole thing. The pork alone was flavorful and tender. The noodles were soft but not mushy, and had a great texture that I haven’t had before. They’re wide, thick, and very long, making it hard to eat them delicately, but that’s OK.

I will definitely be back, and next time I’ll order the spicy cumin lamb hand-ripped noodles, which is one of the items they’re most well-known for.

Overall: my favorite of the day. You have a better chance of getting a seat in a small group of 1-3 people.

Stop 3: 456 Shanghai Cuisine

Where: 69 Mott Street A, NYC

What: Pork soup dumplings

Cost: $5.99 for an order of 8

456 Shanghai Cuisine was bustling at lunchtime but I got a table right away and immediately ordered the soup dumplings, which I couldn’t leave Chinatown without. Most other parties also had an order of soup dumplings on their table; the tables are very close together so it’s hard to miss what people are eating - and talking about. The dumplings came out super hot and once I could manage eating one, I again had to do my best not to eat them all. They were just so flavorful. The service was not overly friendly but it was better than at Lam Zhou.

Overall: delicious. This would be a good place to come as a group.

Stop 4: Vanessa’s Dumpling House

Where: 118A Eldridge St, NYC

What: Sesame pancake

Cost: $1.25

Vanessa’s is about ten minutes from the first three spots, but by this time I needed the walk to digest before my next bite. The space is long and narrow with a handful of tables along one side and the open kitchen and register on the other. The line to order was rather short but the line to pick up was long. I ordered a plain sesame pancake, to go. While waiting for my order I watched them making the large round pancake in a skillet before slicing it into triangles like a pizza pie. It was thick, warm, crusty on the outside and soft in the middle, and so good. I took a few bites and saved the rest to eat with a bowl of soup the next day. Next time I’ll try the pancake with a filling, like vegetables or duck.

Overall: the sesame pancake was great and I look forward to trying more of their menu. Like Xi’An, best to come in a small group since it’s a tight space.

Stop 5: The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

Where: 63 65 Bayard Street, NYC

What: Thai Iced Tea Ice Cream

Cost: $4.95 for a scoop

I’m not one to pass up ice cream, so took advantage of it being winter and popped into Chinatown Ice Cream Factory when I knew there wouldn’t be a line out the door. Their menu of homemade ice cream is ironically broken down into regular (red bean, durian, pandan) and exotic (chocolate, strawberry, vanilla) flavors. I always try to order from the “regular” options since they’re ones you can’t easily find elsewhere. I usually go with Black Sesame but this time went with Thai Iced Tea. It tasted just like a Thai iced tea, which is to say it was good, but a little too sweet. Next time I’ll try something different.

Overall: as always, I’ll come back if I’m in the area.

SELF-GUIDED CHINATOWN, NYC TOUR, MAP VIEW

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