Eat and Drink in Tulum Town (+ Three Honorable Mentions on the Beach)

On my recent trip to Tulum, Mexico with my sister, food and drink is one of the areas where we really saved money, primarily because we stayed in town for most of our visit and it’s much less expensive than the beach area. Part of the price difference is due to the fact that the beach caters solely to tourists, while the town has to cater to both locals and tourists. For the most authentic eating experience I usually look to where the locals are eating anyway, so it’s a win-win. Here are the highlights, plus some honorable beachside mentions! Scroll all the way down for a map of every place I mention.

Note: most restaurants are cash only.

Restaurants in Tulum

Taquería Honorio

Visitors and locals alike will tell you this is the best taquería around. Get there early to beat the crowds and grab a stool at the counter to watch your tacos be assembled. From that vantage point you’ll notice how they keep each taco warm on the grill while finishing your order so they all taste extra fresh (aka making your food with L.O.V.E.). Don’t forget to say hi to the women in the back who are hand pressing the fresh corn tortillas one at a time. Honorio opens before the sun rises and closes after lunch so stop by for breakfast before heading to the ruins or cenotes. All meat tacos are just $16 MXN each (less than $0.90 USD) and they also have quesadillas and tortas (sandwiches) on the menu.

SBBA tip: one morning our lechon al horno taco came topped with crispy pork crackling and another morning with dried pork rind. You can guess which one tasted better, so get there early before they run out of the crackling.

Antojitos la Chiapaneca

Another fan favorite, but with opposite hours than Honorio you can expect the crowd at Antojitos to be made up of more beer drinkers than coffee drinkers. Expect to wait in line during dinner hours, but it’s worth it. With not one but two vertical broilers out front slow cooking pineapple-topped pork, it’s clear al pastor tacos should be part of your order, and at only $8 MXN each there’s no reason to hold back. Help yourself to the salsa bar for as many toppings as you’d like.

SBBA tip: they don’t serve beer so grab one at the convenience store next door to drink while you’re waiting in line for a table.

Charlie’s

Charlie's was recommended to us by a coworker of mine who got married by Charlie. Yes, Charlie not only runs a restaurant but he’s a Shaman who officiates many wedding ceremonies in Tulum. It was fairly quiet on a Saturday night but the vibe was friendly and relaxed, and the food was delicious. We shared ricotta and mushroom empanadas and fish tacos. It’s pricier than the taquerias but still not as expensive as restaurants on the beach, with each dish only around $130 MXN ($7 USD).

SBBA tip: the margaritas at Charlie’s were some of the best we had - fresh lime pulp!

Burrito Amor

Definitely one of the more trendy spots in town, Burrito Amor is an outdoor restaurant that prides itself on clean eating with a menu of breakfast foods, salads, and, of course, burritos. We shared a vegetarian burrito stuffed with rice, cheese, peppers, onions, beans, and avocado, and an al pastor salad with corn. The burrito was clearly the star, full of flavor and only $69 MXN (less than $4 USD). They also serve beer, wine, and a few speciality cocktails. Experiment with the variety of homemade salsas on each table.

SBBA tip: sit at the long double sided bar if you want to make friends or eavesdrop on other customers’ conversations; choose a table for more privacy.

La Mexicanita

Located a few blocks away from the main drag, you probably won’t stumble upon this pozoleria on your own; we went there intentionally after reading about it in our research. Pozole, a soup made of hominy, is their speciality but they have plenty of other options on the menu. Our server, who seemed to be running the joint, was very friendly and explained the difference between red, white, and green pozole to us.

SBBA tip: don’t eat the chips they serve at the table; they weren’t the best we had and we also saw them saving the leftovers from the table next to us, so they’re not worth the stomach space, in my opinion.

Azafran

Surprisingly, we actually did want a breakfast of eggs and toast a couple of times, so one morning we walked over to the welcoming European restaurant Azafran for omelettes and coffee. They also make homemade bagels but having grown up in New Jersey we’re bagel snobs, although I’m sure they’re delicious :). The service was so friendly, it actually felt like being at someone’s home. For two filling egg dishes and free refills on coffee our bill came out to $200 MXN (less than $11 USD).

SBBA tip: sit in the lovely back garden if they have seats available.

El Canaston

This is another taco spot, but their options are all tacos de canasta, or "basket tacos,” meaning they’re stored in a wicker basket with a cloth towel on top, causing the warm tacos to steam and soften inside. El Canaston doesn’t open until after 9AM and when we arrived around 12:30PM they were already out of a few options, as they prepared to close by 2PM, but we still enjoyed pork and cheese for $15 MXN each.SBBA tip: also enjoy a cold juice, made to order.

Bars in Tulum

El Milagrito

On the main block of bars, this is a casual spot with a lively crowd and happy hour specials. We stopped by a couple of times just for drinks and a snack. They call themselves a Mezcal bar but we had to ask to see that menu; they do offer a long list of the Mexican alcohol.

SBBA tip: try to grab a seat on the street so you can people watch.

Batey Mojito and Guarapo Bar

Known for their live music and mojitos, I highly recommend stopping here one night for drinks. It’s cozy, friendly, and frequented by locals and tourists alike. They have a variety of mojito flavors at $100 MXN each, all made with freshly pressed sugar cane. Batey is located on the main block of bars.SBBA tip: take advantage of the communal tables and chat it up with your neighbors.

Hermana República Tulum

On the same street, but a little farther down from the main stretch, is a craft beer bar, which was perfect when we wanted a break from all the Coronas, Sols, and Modelos. The brewery itself is called Patito and they make everything from IPA to pilsner to stout. They serve food but we only tried the beer.

SBBA tip: if you can’t decide, try the sampler of 4 beers for $70 MXN.

Coffee and ice cream in Tulum

Ki’Bok

This isn’t just the best coffee we found in town, it’s really good coffee. We mainly drank americanos here ($30 MXN for a double) but they make all your usual suspects. They also have a breakfast and lunch menu - one morning we shared chilaquiles and a fresh fruit and yogurt plate for $90 MXN each. They do charge $5 MXN for to-go coffee but that seemed to be the norm at other coffee shops as well, as Tulum works towards being more environmentally friendly. They’re located right on the main strip of bars and restaurants and have a hidden backyard full of lush plants and trees.

SBBA tip: sit at the bar in the front and watch the very talented barista work her magic as she calmly keeps up with the mad rush.

Campanella Cremerie

No warm vacation is complete without ice cream and in Tulum town, Campanella is your best choice. With several gelato flavors you can go with a standard scoop or a fancy sundae. You can also get your caffeine fix here, plus the space is welcoming to sit in.

SBBA tip: ask for a sample; they have double sided sample spoons so you get two flavors at once!

Worth a mention on the beach

Chamico’s

This place is all you want from a day at the beach: turquoise water, shade provided by palm trees, hammocks, quiet, and a menu of inexpensive seafood and drinks with table service. The food wasn’t anything to write home about, but it’s the setting you go for.

Chamico’s isn’t visible from the main road so is considered “secret,” which adds to its appeal. Turn off the main access road across from Restaurant Oscar and Lalo, follow the narrow road until you reach a security guard, tell him you’re going to Chamico’s, and continue driving down a narrow road lined with villas. Keep driving even after you question if you’re headed in the right direction. Eventually end up in a big parking lot, park and walk towards the water and the plastic yellow tables and chairs spread out between palm trees, with a glimpse of the turquoise water just beyond.

Plan to spend a few hours here alternating between a towel in the sun, a hammock with your book, and a table for ceviche or shrimp quesadillas and a cold beer or two.

SBBA tip: get there early to feel like you have paradise to yourself. We arrived before the restaurant even opened and it was pretty magical.

Hartwood

Do any research on restaurants in Tulum, and Hartwood will come up as a must. Started by a chef from New York, their modern Mexican menu changes daily depending on what’s fresh and in season. It’s located on the beach road but on the jungle side, and is open air, surrounded by greenery, and lit by candles and lanterns - all very romantic. It was hard to decide on what to order but we ended up with ceviche, grilled octopus, and ribs and all were delicious. This was a splurge for us at $1,620 MXN (about $90 USD) but worth it.

SBBA tip: make a reservation well in advance and bring plenty of cash!

Taqueria La Eufemia

Taqueria La Eufemia is a rare inexpensive taco joint on the beach strip of Tulum. We went at night and found a big crowd, hip-hop music, neon lights, and cheap tacos and margaritas. I can imagine it would be a great place to go during the day, with views of the beautiful water.

SBBA tip: if you enter from the road at night, you have to walk down a long and dark path. It feels sketchy, but whip out your phone's flashlight and soon enough you'll hear the music and people.

EAT, DRINK, AND DO IN TULUM - MAP VIEW